Laminate is one of the most DIY-friendly floors on the market - the click-lock planks float over almost any flat, dry subfloor, and a careful weekend warrior can absolutely install a room or two. This guide walks through every step of a laminate install the way our crews do it, plus the moments where calling in a professional saves you money in the long run. If you'd rather skip the weekend and get it done right the first time, our team offers a free in-home estimate with no pressure.
Step 1: Gather Tools and Materials
- Laminate planks (buy 10% extra for cuts and mistakes)
- Underlayment - or laminate with attached padding
- Tapping block, pull bar, and spacers
- Utility knife, tape measure, pencil, speed square
- Circular saw or miter saw with a fine-tooth blade
- Moisture meter for concrete subfloors
Step 2: Prep the Subfloor
This is the step DIYers skip and pros never do. Vacuum thoroughly, then check flatness with a long straightedge - laminate needs a subfloor flat to within 3/16" over 10 feet. Fill low spots with self-leveler and sand down high spots. For concrete, test moisture with a meter; anything over 4% needs a vapor barrier. Old glued-down carpet or tile has to come out first.
Step 3: Acclimate the Planks
Stack the boxes flat in the room where they'll be installed and leave them for 48 hours. This lets the planks reach the room's temperature and humidity so they don't expand or contract after installation - the #1 cause of buckled laminate floors.
Step 4: Lay the Underlayment
Roll out the underlayment perpendicular to the direction you'll be laying the planks. Butt seams together (don't overlap) and tape them with the manufacturer-recommended tape. If your laminate has attached padding, skip this step - doubling up creates a spongy floor.
Step 5: Plan the Layout
Measure the room and calculate how wide the last row will be. If it comes out less than 2 inches, rip the first row narrower so both sides look balanced. Plank direction usually looks best running parallel to the longest wall or toward the main light source.
Step 6: Install the First Row
Start in a corner with the tongue side facing the wall. Use 3/8" spacers between the plank and the wall on every side. Click planks end-to-end along the first row, cutting the last plank to fit (again leaving a 3/8" expansion gap).
Step 7: Continue Row by Row
Start each new row with the cut-off from the previous row, as long as it's at least 8-12 inches long. Staggering the end joints this way looks natural and locks the floor together. Angle each plank into the row above, then press or tap it down until the seam closes. Use a tapping block - never hit the plank directly.
Step 8: Cut Around Obstacles
Doorways, pipes, and vents need careful measuring. For pipes, drill a hole 3/8" larger than the pipe diameter, then cut a slot to slide the plank around it. For door jambs, undercut the trim with a jamb saw so the plank slides underneath instead of butting against it.
Step 9: Install the Last Row
The final row usually needs to be ripped to width. Measure at multiple points - walls are rarely perfectly straight. Use a pull bar to lock the last row into place since there's no room to swing a tapping block.
Step 10: Install Trim and Transitions
Remove the spacers and install baseboard or quarter round to cover the expansion gap. Never nail trim into the laminate itself - only into the wall. Install transition strips at doorways where laminate meets tile or carpet.
When to Call a Professional
Laminate is DIY-friendly in a rectangular room over a flat, dry subfloor. Stairs, curved walls, uneven concrete, moisture issues, or transitions to multiple flooring types get complicated fast - and mistakes there tend to be expensive to fix. If any of that describes your project, our installers handle it every day. Request a free in-home estimate and we'll walk the space with you, or explore our full laminate collection first if you're still choosing planks.
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